The Making of Panettone

THE MAKING OF PANETTONE

The Author:  Francis E. D’Urso

Counsellor At Law and Culinary Arts[1]

 

The purpose of my articles on the foods of Italy is to help you become a more informed consumer of Italian favorites. Quality, however, often comes at a higher price. If you are looking only for bargain-basement deals, you may be disappointed. At Italianfoodstore.com, LLC, we take pride in the quality of the products we sell. With that in mind, let’s begin with the history of panettone and why, when made properly, it will be worth the price. 

Panettone date back approximately 500 years, or to medieval times in Milan and Lombardy. Breads were commonplace among the citizens, but there was a special one that was enjoyed during the holiday season. Because it was the holiday season, they were willing to spend more for a holiday bread that would come to be known as panettone.  They opted for this delight that consisted of Butter, Eggs, Honey and/or Sugar, Raisins and Candied Citrus, and later became known as the Panettone that we know today.  As time moved on, so did this creation and while the original ingredients remained, it’s size became taller and lighter.  The meaning also changed from what was known then as “Panetto”, which meant a small loaf, to Pannetone meaning it was a large loaf of bread.  

In addition to the historically accurate account, there is however another version to the history of Panettone.  This account is probably not historically correct and should fall into the category of folklore but is something I enjoy learning and so I am including it in the article. It is like other articles I have written, partly truth but mostly fiction.  (see “Witches of Benevento” at www.italianchitchat.com).  As this tale goes, the Duke Ludovico Sforza of Milan, around the late 1400’s was having a Christmas banquet at his Court.  The palace baker overbaked the dessert and was in a panic. To the rescue came   kitchen helper named “Toni”.   From left over flour, butter, eggs, sugar, raisins and candied fruit he had created a festive bread.   The guests were in awe of this creation, so it became known as “Pan de Toni” (Toni’s Bread), which over time became known as Panettone.  Now, if you believe that version, I probably can convince you that I am descendant of Julius Ceasar!

Okay, just the facts, no more B.S.  The making of the Panettone takes on average up to 72 hours to make.  The process is arduous.  You start with natural sourdough starter known as (lievito madre) meaning “mother yeast”; this is a natural yeast made from just flour and water, and develops a living culture.  Unlike processed yeast, those two ingredients are the powerhouse that makes everything work (Hmm, and after thought maybe it would help something else work!)   Over time the two ingredients develop a wild bacteria known as lactic acid bacteria, that colonize the mixture into the sourdough ingredient necessary for the panettone to rise properly, allowing it to also create it’s unique flavor profiles. In simpler terms commercial yeast would not create the ability to handle all the ingredients that give it the lift and flavor that makes panettone unique. One other point.  The baker is the one who creates it’s own starter making it unique to that recipe for panettone.  So, no two starters are the same and many are kept living for years.    

The first 24-hour period in the process has the starter being mixed with more high protein flour, which begins the formation of the flavor and light stringy texture.  This is what gives the panettone a shelf life of many weeks.

The following evening is referred to as the first dough. The starter is again mixed with the high protein flour, to which water is added to Sugar, Egg Yolks, Butter.  In all a finished recipe will have 20% butter. The ingredients are then kneaded until it results in a smooth texture. It then ferments for up to 14 hours overnight and will double or triple in size. 

The following morning more of the original ingredients are added, along with Salt, Vanilla, Honey, Candied Orange Peel, Candied Citron and Raisins.  Then the process of kneading begins once again until it develops a strong gluten structure.  It then rests for about an hour before being divided into portions and then made into tight balls and placed into paper molds.  The balls rise again in the paper molds after 4-8 hours and in some instances longer.  Once the loaves are baked and removed from the ovens, a steel rod is inserted through the bottom, and the loaves are then turned upside down for about 12 hours.  The reason for this is interesting.  Well for all you Susie Homemakers out there that a cake’s leavening agent is not disproportionate to the other ingredients, so it rises and can cool without the other ingredients making it collapse. Not with Panettone. Once they leave the oven, metal rods are inserted into the bottom of the bread, and they are hung upside down. This prevents them from collapsing because of the amount of ingredients in each bread.

As a footnote, the foregoing recipe is an example of how panettone are made.  Each company has its own recipe, methodology and time periods for fermentation and preparation of a traditional panettone.  Also, there are many flavors of panettone which are not included in this article.

Another factoid!  Italy maintains a strict standard for the commercial production and labelling of panettone, which include, but is not limited to the minimum amount of butter, eggs, raisins and candied fruit that must be used. [2]  This is why Italians may not have created food or other things, but they perfected all of them!

 Now, how will you enjoy your Panettone this year? You open your mouth and insert a slice…sorry, I needed a little levity after writing thus far about this favorite of mine.   For me, I just slice and eat it.[3] Every year when I go to the Specialty Food Show in New York, I first go to the Italian pavilion, which has about 500 exhibitors from Italy.  I locate the companies displaying their Panettone and of course sample each one as I enjoy looking at all the products being offered.  You can toast a slice and add butter or hazelnut spread, or some honey. You can make it into French Toast, or place a scoop of Gelato on it.  Creativity is only limited by one’s imagination!

In summary, Panettone just isn’t a bread, it is rooted in the Traditions of Old- World Italy by those who cherish craftmanship and celebration of life.   So now you know that Panettone is a legendary Christmas bread, with ingredients of high gluten flour, naturally fermented sourdough, that is slowly fermented, giving birth to a light, fragrant bread, filled with sweet raisins, candied fruit and the traditions of Italian heritage.  And now you know why you pay for what you get…quality!

Buon Appetito!